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And we can guess its popularity in Elizabethan England by Shylock outburst in The Merchant of Venice when his scalawag daughter Jessica traded one of his rings for a monkey. “It was my turquoise, “he cries.” … I would not have given it for a wilderness of monkeys. “The stone mystical pull as well as its natural beauty helps explain why Egyptian rulers of the First Dynasty 5,500 years ago had it mined by slaves in the Sinai. One of history first hard-rock mining operations, it was under the high patronage of the goddess Hathor, Mistress of Turquoise. Persian turquoise produced at the 10th-century mines at Nishapur, birthplace of Omar Khayyam, was traded far and wide. It notably covered the walls of one of the splendors of Islamic art, the lavish Samarkand mausoleum of the 14th-century Mongol conqueror Tamerlane. But this felicitous mix of hydrated copper and aluminum phosphate from arid lands, where groundwater seeps into cracks in rocks and deposits harden over several million years, reached a peak of importance in ancient Mexico. Combining it with materials like quartz, obsidian, garnet, gold, and mother-of-pearl, Aztec lapidaries fashioned vivid mosaics for ceremonial shields, masks, bracelets, and other ornaments for priestly use in religious rituals-including the mosaic-covered Somerset basic hoop earrings of knives used to cut the pulsing hearts from sacrificial victims. Thinking that a pale-skinned, bearded man newly arrived from the east might be the long-awaited reincarnation of the plumed serpent deity Quetzalcoatl, Emperor Montezuma II sent some of this treasure to greet Hernán Cortés in the spring of 1519. Among the priceless Aztec pieces that Cortés duly shipped back to Spain were a spectacular shield and a mask of Quetzalcoatl, both covered in intricate turquoise mosaic and on view today in the British Museum. As it happens, most of this turquoise came originally from the Cerrillos mines just south of what is now Santa Fe. Well over 1,000 years ago , Native Americans hewed out great nuggets of turquoise, cut them into manageable pieces, and sent them down commercial routes through Mexico in a sophisticated trading system, receiving corn and other merchandise in exchange. Archaeologists estimate that, without the aid of modern mining machinery, Indian laborers processed tens of thousands of tons of stone at the biggest mining site on the American continent. In 1988, Douglas Magnus, a Santa Fe jewelry designer originally from San Francisco, bought 50 acres in the Cerrillos area, including the mine sites. ” This area produced Persian-quality stones of good hardness, “he told me when we visited a mine together.” After the prehistoric trading system collapsed, it had another boom of intense mining from 1889 to 1910, when it was owned by the American Turquoise Company of New York. The retail value of the stones they mined was probably over a million dollars. “Stooping to pick up a blue nugget for later use in his shop, Magnus commented on how heady and romantic it was for a jewelry designer to own such a property. “And it so beautiful.” Savoring the panorama through crystal-clear air Tiffany 1837 bookmark from the Sangre de Cristo mountains south to the Sandias near Albuquerque, I had to agree with him, and with the English writer DH Lawrence, who, enchanted by the landscape, ended his days in nearby Taos: “Something stood still in my soul.” In his Santa Fe workshop Magnus and his three craftsmen do sleek, high-fashion belt buckles, bracelets, necklaces, and the like for connoisseurs willing to pay from $ 400 to $ 10,000 for a piece, sometimes working with a customer on a one-of-a-kind design. “I don want to produce anything that seems Native American,” he says, “because I m not. What I try to do is to produce jewelry that is worthy of its heritage. “For those who want traditional Navajo, Zuni, Hopi, and Pueblo designs there are plenty of Native American craftsmen turning out high-quality pieces in the Southwest . But Ray Tracey, a Navajo living in Albuquerque, is unusual in doing turquoise jewelry based on a traditional look but with a sophisticated contemporary twist. “I love the colors of turquoise,” he says. “I use it in reverence for what it has meant to my people. But I not a purist about it and I market-aware enough to know what the public wants today. “His smooth, understated pieces based on things like stylized arrowheads and bear fetishes range in price from $ 50 for something simple up to thousands for inlay mixes of turquoise, jet, coral, and lapis. Born and raised on a reservation in Tiffany 1837 Charm bracelet, Tracey began making jewelry at age nine and selling it at flea markets for pocket money. In 1974 he was spotted by a Hollywood film producer on the campus of Brigham Young University, where he was planning to study engineering. “You look like an Indian,” said the astute producer, to which Tracey replied the equivalent of “Well, duh. “For ten years he got typecast Indian roles in films like flow the West Was Won, Centennial, and others. Sensing that was a dead end, he returned to his first love of jewelry. Obviously a talented graphic artist-with a few deft strokes he drew a perspective map of the Champs-Elysées to show me his favorite café in Paris, which he loves to visit-Tracey gets his inspiration everywhere. “My latest collection is called arth and Sky, quot; he says. “One day I was out in Shiprock, and saw a beautiful turquoise sky over some red rock formations with dark clouds above. Presto, earth and sky.”

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